A cross between an upstate New York hunting lodge, Wyoming ranch house, and the housewares department at Gorsuch, The Curtis Club offers fantastic food in a rustic urban setting. The same care that went into the hand-built décor made largely from reclaimed wood – including the hand-built tables with embedded horseshoes – is seen in the thoughtful cuisine.
The wintry night of our reservation, the Soup of the Moment was a spicy tomato lobster bisque, which was reminiscent of the old Lola’s lobster bisque, a thing of beauty that was lost to the restaurant’s move from Pearl Street to The Highlands.
A Brussels sprouts tour of Denver could begin with The Curtis Club’s offering of Brussels Sprout Petals with Toasted Almonds, Currants, and Queso de Mano. It is a light salad course that contrasts sharply with some of the decadent Paleo-style fried Brussels sprouts on other menus around town. The Roasted Winter Vegetable Salad with Walnut Romesco and Lacinato Kale was heavy on the root vegetables and light on the kale – perfect for beet lovers but perhaps not green enough for those in search of a more traditional salad.
The Teton Waters Grass Fed Beef Tenderloin with Cauliflower Gratin, Prune, and Shallot Confit was melt-in-your-mouth tasty, with unusual textures in the sweet of the stewed prunes and savory of the tiny kettle of cauliflower florets in a lighter cheese sauce.
The Longs Peak Lamb Rack was another tender meat offering. Where there was not enough kale in the salad, there was so much in this course the diner opted for the same preparation as the tenderloin. The gratin arrived in a tiny cast iron skillet, a fun way to serve a side dish with a thinner sauce.
Other items of note on the menu include the Chef’s Vegetarian Carnival, an entrée of seasonal vegetables presented by the chef; Seasonal Foraged Mushrooms; and a Nightly Seafood Creation. The Curtis Club menu sources foods locally and features sustainable ingredients.
The drink menu has a lot of appeal for cocktail and beer lovers, but is more limited for wine lovers. Kudos for the many Colorado brews. The staff was warm and friendly, and enhanced the comfortable feel of the space.
If you are a foodie, put The Curtis Club on your list. For a fun night out, consider inviting a half-dozen fellow foodies to the “Table of Never-Ending Happiness,” a personalized tasting menu for a minimum of six people; requires one week advance notice.
Until our next adventure in wine and food…
The Curtis Club
2100 Curtis Street at 21st
Denver, CO 80205