The Plimoth Neighborhood Eatery: Oasis on a dark night

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The Plimoth Neighborhood Eatery sits like a glowing oasis surrounded by vacant buildings in a quiet, out-of-the way spot. The neighborhood is gentrifying, but the restaurant is a bit of a pioneer, sitting next door to an abandoned building with broken windows.

The staff is as warm and welcoming as the restaurant on a dark night. The space feels like it was lifted from Manhattan, set to a soundtrack of light jazz. The tables are close together, New York Style. A great little cup of housemade potato chips arrives with the menus, and you are in the moment.

The dinner menu exhibits French and Italian inspiration, with a twist. One look and we realized our late lunches did us a disservice. It took us a few minutes to settle on our choices because there were a number of intriguing menu items. A quick scan of the drink menu revealed a local focus in Colorado beers but no Colorado wines by the glass or bottle.

We ordered the tasty Roast Beet Salad with Flourish Farm Greens, Red Wine & Feta Vinaigrette, and Toasted Pistachios. Its recommended wine pairing was a Jean-Francois Merieau Sauvignon Blanc, but it was a bit sweet for the salad. A diner at the table next to ours ordered a glass of Champagne, which may have been a crisper pairing.

Two of the dishes we must order next time are the Charred Broccolini with Warm Rosemary Vinaigrette, Crushed Red Pepper, White Anchovy, and Almond Crumbles, which many fellow diners were eating with abandon, and the Cauliflower Turnip Gratinée with Pleasant Ridge Reserve Mornay and Boutique Mushrooms. Note to self: come hungry!

Our entrées included Cracklin’ Chicken with Shrimp Etouffeé, Laurel-Scented Basmati Rice, and Freshies, and Choucroute Garni, Plimoth Housemade Brat, Braised Pork Belly (outside crisped to perfection), Housemade Sauerkraut, Fingerling Potatoes and Pearl Onions, with Prost Pils Jus.

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The Choucroute – a pork paradise – was recommended to pair with Prost Pils from Denver, but we opted for the Henninger Riesling 2011 in the Trocken or dry style. It paired well with both dishes. Gewurztraminer would have been another good choice. The residual sugar in a dry or off-dry Riesling or Gewurztraminer stands up well to fat in pork.

The Plimoth was named one of 5280’s Best New Restaurants. See for yourself why it is worthy of this mantle.

Until our next adventure in wine and food…

The Plimoth Neighborhood Eatery
2335 East 28th Avenue
Denver, Colorado 80205
Neighborhood: North City Park

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